Fetishism in Fashion

Not so long after Svetlana Batura took photos of my felted kimonos on a man and I submitted these photos, I got a letter from Paris, to be more precise – from Edelkoort ETC, a company of a famous trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort.

 

The letter was an invitation:

“Please find enclosed a letter of invitation from Lidewij Edelkoort, the press letter, as well as images of the pieces we are most inspired by and feel are key to the expression of fetishism in contemporary fashion.  Would you please let me know if you would be interested in participating in this high-profile European fashion event, and if so, indicate if the attached pieces are available for consideration?” …

“Some of the designers who already accepted to contribute are: Walter van Beirendonck, Iris van Herpen, Rad hourani, Kei Kagami, Rick Owens, Bernhardt Wilhelm, Bas Kosters, Damir Doma, Joji Kojima, Aitor throup, Peter Movrin, Chris Sutton, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maison Martin Margiela, Yingin Ying, Prada, Uma Burke, Gabriella Marina Gonzalez, Luuk Varkevisser, KYE,  Barbara I Gongini and many more outside designers.”

“Please let me know if you need any additional information at all, while I look forward to hearing back from you soon regarding your interest.”

 

My work was selected for their exhibition “Fetishism in Fashion” at M°BA. Of course I said yes. Who wouldn’t want to be in a company of Iris van Herpen, Rick Owens, Jean Paul Gaultier???

The exhibition is now on view in Arnhem, the Netherlands. If you are there you can go and enjoy. But you will not find my work there. Unfortunately the last minutes changes were like this:

“We also have received lower budgets and less exhibition space than we first were told, and so we are sorry that this has a restricting effect on things too.
Please know that the Li Edelkoort is a big admirer of your work and that this decision is only based on the exhibition as a whole rather than individual pieces that she loves.”

Well, I can still feel happy that I have been chosen by Li Edelkoort among others like Jean Paul Gaultier and that she loves my work. Good intentions

Animism. Design with the soul.

“The animal world will keep invading and transforming the life of humans represented in a more abstract and less narrative manner.
Fibre and plant are becoming dominant materials animated by organic form and skeleton structures”.

“Primitive matter and organic shapes will embody a need of man longing for a more meaningful and ritualistic relationship with earth and the elements.
Resulting in a revival of animism.
Therefore designers create brut and raw shapes that resemble totemic termite mounds, honeycomb shape, spider web laces and timber structures”.

“Can design have a soul and therefore be animated?”

I have mentioned Li Edelkoort some years ago in one of my posts here and now came across her words again when Irit shared it. There’s so much of the truth and purity in her words about trends (that we already see today!) which echo so well with my own inner feelings and believes.

And the whole trend report of her is so well worth reading:

“Post Fossil - excavating 21st century creation by Lee Edelkoort 2011
Time has come for extreme change
Society is ready to break away from last century for good.
To break with creative conventions, theoretic rules and stigmas that now are questioned, challenged and broken.
To break with a materialistic mentality replacing it with the crafted materialization of modest earth-bound and recomposed matter.
In the aftermath of the worst financial crisis in decades, a period of glamorous and streamlined design for design's sake come to an end.
A new generation of designers retrace their roots, refine their earth and research their history, sometimes going back to the beginning of time.
In this process, they form and formulate design around natural and sustainable materials, favoring timber, hide, pulp, fibre, earth and fire.
Like contemporary cavemen, they reinvent shelter, redesign tools and manmade machines, and conceptualize archaic rituals for a more modest, content and contained lifestyle.
Like a Fred Flintstone of the future.
The animal world will keep invading and transforming the life of humans represented in a more abstract and less narrative manner.
fibre and plant are becoming dominant materials animated by organic form and skeleton structures.
Our relationship with all living organisms is at stake. Therefore humans will share and care for each other.
Soon the world will discover that we are all family.
Ecology and sustainability will no longer be enough.
Primitive matter and organic shapes will embody a need of man longing for a more meaningful and ritualistic relationship with earth and the elements.
Resulting in a revival of animism.
Therefore designers create brut and raw shapes that resemble totemic termite mounds, honeycomb shape, spider web laces and timber structures; at times incorporating biotechnology into the making process to inspire design systems for the future.
Nature is a dominant ingredient in this movement, although no longer used in a naive and aspiring ecological language, but as a mature philosophy fit for newer age. Raising the questions that need to be raised.
Can we do with less to become more?
Can design have a soul and therefore be animated?
Can man find a more meaningful way to consume?
Can we break with the past and reinvent the future?
In general, materials will be matte and humble, however the earth and its hidden riches also invites this generation to employ minerals, alloys and crystals; adding lustre and sometimes even sheen to fossil-like concepts and constructions.
Laquered and polished surfaces are enhancing vegabond finds, unveiling their raw beauty while questioning the survival of the world's economy.
At times these designs will echo the essence of the arte povera movement which is bound to make a revival – soon”

Lidewij Edelkoort